"On the Way to Koregaon" by Ambedkar

 "On the Way to Koregaon" by Ambedkar


"On the Way to Koregaon" is a powerful and poignant autobiographical essay by Dr. B.R. Ambedkar, recounting his childhood experience of traveling with his siblings to Koregaon to meet his father, who was serving in the British Indian Army. 

The essay vividly portrays the harsh realities of untouchability and the deep-seated discrimination Ambedkar faced even as a young boy.

The essay begins with Ambedkar and his siblings undertaking the journey to Koregaon. They are traveling without their parents, relying on the kindness of strangers. Right from the outset, Ambedkar highlights their anxiety and fear, not just of the journey itself, but of the social interactions they might encounter due to their caste.

As they travel by bullock cart, they reach a point where the cart driver, a Muslim man, realizes that the children belong to the "untouchable" Mahar caste. Upon this realization, his demeanor changes drastically. He refuses to continue driving them, fearing social contamination. 

Ambedkar poignantly describes the shock and helplessness they felt at this sudden and inexplicable rejection. They offer to pay double, but the driver remains adamant, unwilling to be associated with them.

This incident forces the young Ambedkar and his siblings to alight from the cart and continue their journey on foot under the scorching sun. They are exhausted, thirsty, and their feet are burning. Ambedkar vividly describes their parched throats and the desperate search for water.

Reaching a village, they approach a well, the only source of water in sight. However, they are acutely aware of the social barrier that prevents them from drawing water themselves. They know that if they identify themselves as Mahars, they will be denied access and possibly face hostility.

In their desperation, they plead with a kind-looking man from a higher caste to draw water for them. They offer to pay him. The man, after ascertaining their caste, is initially reluctant. However, moved by their plight and their earnest pleas, he agrees, but with strict conditions. 

He will not pour the water into their hands directly. Instead, they must cup their hands, and he will pour the water from a distance to avoid any physical contact that he believes would defile him.

Ambedkar meticulously describes the awkward and humiliating process of receiving water in this manner. The children struggle to catch the precious liquid in their cupped hands without spilling any. This scene powerfully illustrates the dehumanizing nature of untouchability, where even a basic necessity like water becomes a source of segregation and degradation.

Finally, after enduring immense hardship and humiliation, they reach Koregaon and are reunited with their father. However, the memory of the journey, particularly the incidents of rejection and the struggle for water, leaves a deep and lasting impression on young Ambedkar.


"On the Way to Koregaon" is more than just a travelogue. It serves as a stark and personal account of the pervasive and dehumanizing effects of the caste system in India. 

Through the innocent eyes of a child, Ambedkar exposes the cruelty and irrationality of untouchability. The essay highlights:

 * The pervasive nature of untouchability: Discrimination follows them even in their innocent journey.

 * The psychological impact of discrimination: The constant fear of rejection and the feeling of being less than human are palpable.

 * The denial of basic human rights: Even access to something as essential as water is denied based on caste.

 * The kindness of strangers amidst prejudice: The Muslim cart driver's initial kindness followed by his abrupt rejection and the higher-caste man's eventual, albeit conditional, help showcase the complex social dynamics of the time.

 * The formative nature of such experiences: This journey and the humiliation endured undoubtedly played a significant role in shaping Ambedkar's lifelong struggle against caste discrimination.

The essay is written with a simple yet powerful clarity, allowing the reader to vividly experience the hardships faced by Ambedkar and his siblings. 

It stands as a crucial piece of Dalit literature, offering a firsthand glimpse into the brutal realities of untouchability and the early experiences that fueled Ambedkar's fight for social justice and equality. It underscores the urgent need for the eradication of caste-based discrimination and the establishment of a truly egalitarian society.


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